My Canarian adventure

These are qualities that Deirdre Macdonald, site manager at Santa Rosa in Lanzarote, has in spades. Here Deirdre describes her perfect weekend.

My weekend starts with the bring-a-bottle evening on Friday night, open to all Bondholders – we provide local wine and cheese, and it’s a chance for all my guests to get to know each other, and for me to get to know them; one aspect of the job I never tire of is meeting new people. Everyone has a story to tell, and Bondholders and their friends come from all walks of life!

I always try to explain to Bondholders about the fantastic guided tours that are available on the island. Walking in volcanic landscapes, stunning beaches, glorious weather – it’s all here. Take to the sunbed if you want, but there’s so much in Lanzarote, just waiting to be discovered, experienced – and savoured.

And I’m really excited. I’m off exploring for the weekend, with my dogs – Poppy and Twiggy, my two terriers. They’re excited, too – they seem to know something good is going to happen… This is our time – me, my girls; and an island I know well, but always want to know better.

Saturday morning, 7.30am – a bit of a chilly start (it’s February, after all), but it won’t be long till we feel the warmth of the ever-reliable Canary Island sun on our backs. First stop: the Cueva de Los Verdes. Me, the girls and a few hardy Bondholders head for the “Green Caves” to meet Antonio, a walking guide whose family have lived in Lanzarote for generations and who knows everything about the island. The Green Caves are to be found in the North and were created by lava, unusual as most caves were formed by water. The caves have some unusual features and optical illusions – and a theatre, used in May and June for musical recitals. No amplification is required as the acoustics are perfect.

But there’s too much to see and too much to do. Walking with Antonio through Lanzarote’s “lunar” landscape yields rich rewards, as he shows us the cochineal beetles in the cactus fields – and squashes one (yeuch!) to reveal the deep red dye for which the beetles are famous. We walk on through cultivated fields to Haria, where we take in the artisans’ market – local craftspeople making items for sale from palm leaves, leather and wool, and selling Spanish produce in a typically Spanish setting, with local bars and cafes serving mountain tapas while musicians play traditional ballads under the magnificent orange trees that line the square. Time for a beer and a bite to eat, and the girls and I leave the Bondholders in Antonio’s care and head off on our own. Poppy and Twiggy are excited about visiting the beach – and I’m just happy to be free. It feels so relaxing, walking in the sunshine, watching the cyclists criss-cross the island on the many beautiful back roads.

But there’s plenty of light left, so I’m off to see a friend who keeps horses – yes, I’m going for a ride. The girls stay in the car for this bit, as John lets me saddle up his beautiful white mare and head off. It feels like the Wild West! Just thrilling.

Then it’s a stop at a local farm to pick up some vegetables for supper. That’s enough for one day…

Sunday, and the girls and I are off to a bodega for some wine tasting. We’re meeting two Bondholder couples there and all enjoy the wine and the sumptuous breakfast/brunch. Stopped off en route to talk to the camel guides, as I have to arrange some trips for later in the week. Camels: those that love ‘em, love’em; but you wouldn’t catch me on one!

But the real focus of my day is a trip to La Graciosa, an island off Lanzarote’s northern tip and the very definition of “unspoilt”. A 45-minute hop by ferry, La Graciosa is a very chilled island; do not expect tourist shops and facilities. There is a bakery, three supermarkets, a DIY shop, a choice of bars and restaurants, a sociedad and a nightclub, some great beaches and just a really laid-back, barefoot, sandy tracked, very relaxing island. If you like surfing, the locals head for the reef in between Playa Francesa and Playa de La Cocina, but there are some serious waves on the far coast at Bajo del Corral.

But we’re not here to surf – or shop, for that matter. I want to have a real good look around this place – and wheels are the way to go. The girls and I clamber into the back of a hired 4x4 (along with a hired bike) and head off into the hinterland. It’s volcanic and sandy, like its larger neighbour – but largely uninhabited (the Gracioseras number just 700) and, seemingly, wholly untouched. Absolutely magical.

Back to Caleta del Sebo, the port, to await the last ferry home. Just time for a fantastic dinner of grilled octopus, gazing out over the Rio strait before the girls and I run for the boat. We make it – just; the ship’s hooter provides the necessary call to action.

And that’s it. Monday morning, and back to reality. But what a weekend to remember. One to look back on – and look forward to!