Lanzarote but not as you know it... surprise landscapes await

Lidia Quesada Martin, Site Manager of Santa Rosa, is passionate about the island she calls home and all that it has to offer. There are secret oases pocketed across the beautifully arid Lanzarote and she’s on hand to help you find them.

Having teamed up with Carmen, founder of the tour company Eco Insider, around two years ago, Lidia is well-equipped to offer those of you staying the best by way of island tours. “Everyone who has been on one of her day trips comes up to me afterwards and raves about what a good time they’ve had”. Lidia has lived on the island for most of her life, but will be the first to admit she still discovers new places. “That’s why I was eager to tag along.” She accompanied Bondholders Rob and Debbie Court on their tour and was able to finally see Carmen in action. “She took us on a whirlwind tour of some of her favourite places. It was great, and we were lucky with the weather which was a bonus!”

Carmen really packs the day full of facts and stories, bringing to life the passion that Eco Insider has for the natural world. “The opportunity to explore parts of the island which are off the beaten track,” says Rob, “in small groups and with such an expert, is not to be missed.”

The El Jable desert in Soo, toward the north of the island, is a golden expanse that, for Debbie, was the highlight of the tour. Carmen is licenced to show visitors around the protected desert in her 4x4, driving along the sandy tracks enthusiastically explaining that there is much more to this dusty landscape than may first meet the eye. “To begin with it looked like there was nothing there,” Debbie explains, “then Carmen started pointing out all these amazing birds that were camouflaged, and the tiny plants all around us. It was magical.” Though it’s home to smaller birds like pipits, larks and hoopoes, you might also be lucky enough to spot birds of prey circling overhead, or the Houbara bustards, whose small Canarian population is the only one in Europe. Their impressive plumage means they blend almost seamlessly into the rocky surroundings, so you will have to keep an eye out.

It was the birdlife that really interested her group, so Carmen focused her adventure around that and next took Lidia and the Courts for a wander into the crater of Volcán del Cuervo. The volcano was the first to start the series of Timanfaya eruptions between 1730 and 1736 and is now part of the Los Volcanes Natural Park which is a wonderfully jagged, ashy landscape interspersed with peaks and craters. The Martian lava fields are shaped by volcanic cones, tunnels and interesting formations, giving it an unconventional beauty that you won’t regret exploring. The natural park is classified as a Special Bird Protection Area and Carmen is a master at pointing out where the falcons are perching high in the rocks. If you’re there without a guide, however, the footpath isn’t too hard to find; it leads straight from the carpark towards the Volcán del Cuervo, through a fissure in the rocks and to the crater within.

“Carmen started pointing out all these amazing birds that were camouflaged, and the tiny plants all around us. It was magical.”

The 18th century eruptions covered some of the most fertile parts of the island, such as Geria, in black carpets of ash. As you make your way around the island you will notice fantastic dark plains pockmarked with bizarre semicircular holes and Geria is now one of the famous wine-producing regions that you may get to visit during your tour. Volcanic ash has a high mineral content and a trip to the Bodegas Stratvs in Geria will allow you to sample the wine that is produced from the rich soils. “We were able to explore the volcanic vineyard and the wine cellars, taste the wine and learn about the production process” Lidia recalls. Carmen showed them how the vines were planted into their own dug-out pits in the coarse earth and then protected by a low semi-circular stone wall. This unique growing technique optimises moisture retention; the porous volcanic granules trap what they can from the humid nighttimes and early morning mist that falls. To prevent the loss of any of this precious moisture from the soil, the walls protect the growing pits from winds and, to an extent, sun too.

“I’m so proud of everyone here, everyone works so hard.”

"It gives you a real taste of the island’s old traditions and cultures"

There is much to keep you busy if you’re exploring the island in your own time without a guide. Though you may not want to linger inside too long when the sun beckons, there are a couple of places you really mustn’t miss. The contemporary art museum, which is in Arrecife, is really easy to get to from site, at just 10 minutes by road. It is located in the Castillo de San José, which dates from the 18th century and it was artist César Manrique who convinced the authorities to turn the fortress into a gallery. It’s now a really interesting exhibition space with a superb restaurant that has large glass windows looking out over the bay where, at certain tide times, sculptures can be seen emerging from the waters. Arrecife is the capital of Lanzarote, and a centre for many big festivals and celebrations. In March, Carnival was taking place in the city centre as a celebration of César Manrique and the centenary of his birth. Various events and parades were held, so Lidia organised transport to take guests to and from the site. Manrique still has a huge influence on Lanzarote and it is his work that we have to thank for the characteristic white-washed villages that decorate the island with their brightly coloured green and blue shutters.

An often overlooked attraction is the Agricultural Museum El Patio in the village of Tiagua. “It gives you a real taste of the island’s old traditions and cultures.” Lidia says. It is easily missed if you’re not looking for it, as the museum occupies an unassuming farm complex, one of the oldest working farms, in fact, in Lanzarote. The museum itself is based in the large farmhouse building and you’ll step back in time as you discover reconstructed rooms, interesting displays, examples of old architecture and collections of agricultural implements. Several old mills still remain on the site, as well as the bodega: the farm still produces wine and goats cheese, so you can taste and purchase these in the little shop.

Carmen took her group to have lunch at Casa de la Playa in Arrieta near Tabayesco, which is great for seafood and well worth a visit. There are closer options to Santa Rosa though; “you can walk to the Plaza Pueblo Marino in about 20 minutes, or drive in five.” Lidia explains. There is plenty of choice with a number of restaurants, bars and tapas places. Mercado Diecisiete comes recommended by Lidia, serving traditional cuisine with a modern twist and, across the square, is a nice cocktail bar called Hook.

If you prefer not to venture too far from site then stick around on a Wednesday afternoon for some typical Spanish cuisine. Paella cooking demonstrations take place in the grounds from 7pm and you’ll be shown how to cook it from scratch before sampling the finished dish. There are many other activities going on around the site to keep you occupied but, between the team at Santa Rosa, there will always be someone on hand to offer advice and tips for days out if you wish to explore. They are friendly people with local knowledge and, though the team is a small one, the site runs like clockwork. “They’re so welcoming and professional,” Rob tells us. “They maintain very high standards and we’ve already decided to return next year.”

Lidia agrees: “I’m so proud of everyone! They work so hard.” Carolina, Assistant Manager, and Lidia make a really good duo, taking great pride in the presentation of Santa Rosa. “We love it to look smart and recently bought brand new outdoor tables, chairs and sun loungers, which look great and really give the place a lift.” When you arrive you will notice the outdoor areas are bright and clean and freshly painted, reminiscent of the local picture-perfect white-washed villages, while the freshly-planted gardens, rich with colour, are something César Manrique himself would surely approve of. 

Santa Rosa offers many facilities for the exclusive use of Bondholders, including a swimming pool (heated in the winter), pool table and table tennis in the clubhouse, wifi, DVD library and games. There are also shared facilities including a children's play area, crazy golf and Pétanque.