Where nurture and nature meet

Norfolk is a county of wide open spaces, expansive skies, few (but friendly!) people, and much to see, both natural and manmade. But boy it’s big. Too big to do in a day, certainly. 

Norfolk offers many well-known attractions. The Norfolk Broads are deservedly popular and North Norfolk draws visitors in huge numbers. As well as access to not one but two Championship golf courses on site, Bondholders visiting Barnham Broom have no shortage of things to do and places to go. So, if one is prepared to cram a lot into a day, here’s a trip that showcases the best that the region has to offer – nature in the wild, nature tamed, historic architecture and glorious countryside.

From Barnham Broom, head north towards the pretty Georgian market town of Holt – worth a look in itself – to the small hamlet of Letheringsett, and nearby Barney – home to “Back to the Garden”, a glorious combination of farm shop, café and (you guessed it) a garden to die for.

From Barney head west towards Brancaster Staithe. Nearby Brancaster itself is the site of Norfolk’s second most fabulous beach (first prize arguably goes to nearby Holkham). But we’re not going there; we’re booked on a trip with Branta Cruises.

The North Norfolk coast is one of the foremost sites in the UK for birdwatchers. There are always surprises at migration time, and during the winter there is the spectacle of many thousands of pinkfoot and brent geese. In spring and early summer there are migrating waders like whimbrel and godwits, and arriving breeding birds like ringed plovers, sandwich and little terns. Marsh harriers are likely to be seen, as are barn owls and passing migrant flycatchers, warblers and chats. Peregrine and merlin are frequently seen during autumn and winter.

And one of the best ways to witness all this is from Jon Brown’s boat, the Laura May. For almost 15 years through the spring and summer months Jon has been the boatman and one of the wardens for Natural England, looking after the Scolt Head Island national nature reserve. The cruises usually vary in duration from 1½ hours to three hours, and even longer cruises are possible, up to a maximum of 4½ hours when conditions permit. Unfortunately, my cruise was one of the shorter ones. But memorable, for sure – flocks of terns and turnstones and, from the National Trust information centre in the centre of Scolt Head Island, fabulous views along the coast as it stretched eastwards.

After all that fresh air, lunch; and where else but the Hoste Arms in Burnham Market? Often called Chelsea-on-Sea by the locals, Burnham Market does admittedly get invaded by weekending Londoners. But they’ve brought London money to the village – and the Hoste fits with Burnham Market’s new image. If that sounds like damning with faint praise, it’s not; the Hoste is a lovely old pub, and the food is excellent.

With lunch done, head south via Fakenham to Castle Acre, a village with an extraordinary wealth of history, and a rare and complete example of a Norman planned settlement, including a castle, town, parish church and associated monastery. There is much to see, particularly at the priory, including the beautiful west-end church gable, the prior’s lodging and substantial remains of many of the buildings round the cloister. The recreated herb garden grows herbs which the monks would have used for medicinal, culinary and decorative purposes.

Now to Oxburgh Hall, about 10 miles further south, via Swaffham. Built by the Bedingfeld family in the 15th Century (they still live there) Oxburgh Hall is a romantic, moated manor house, now owned by the National Trust. Outside, the gardens are something to behold. There are four main garden areas dating from Oxburgh’s Victorian era. The most striking is the French parterre, with its colourful pattern of flowers. Close by is the herbaceous border, a glorious mix of colour and form. The old walled garden is now divided into two: an orchard and a kitchen garden.

Two more stops as you head for home. Cranworth first, a pretty medieval Norfolk village, and home to GR Bunning & Co, a family-run fishmongers (complete with their own smokehouse) selling fresh local fish and shellfish. A good place for Bondholders to buy something for tea.

You’re almost home – but there’s just time for a stop at Hingham, ancestral home of the Lincoln family (“Honest Abe” of course went on to find fame elsewhere). Hingham was formerly known as “Little London”, having been briefly fashionable in the 18th Century when the great and good of high society built grand houses and took up residence. These days, Hingham still punches well above its weight in terms of retail opportunities.